Every child dreams a lot. I found out some are just simple ones as I recall mine. I remember how I spent time admiring beautiful pictures on magazines, wondering if mine could be there someday. Finally, the chance's coming ! My first travel article was published on August edition of Lionmag, inflight magazine of Lion Air. It is about Belitung island at the eastern Sumatra, Indonesia. Actually, I enjoy creating photographs much more than writing. I have trouble with words but now it's time to deal with it, right? I also want to say thank you to the editor for fixing my writing, haha.
The original article is in Indonesian language, but I also try to translate it to English. You just need to keep scrolling down if you don't read Bahasa. I apologize for any grammatical mistakes there. Lastly, don't expect, just enjoy reading!
SISI LAIN BELITUNG
Berkunjung ke Belitung rasanya kurang lengkap jika tak menyinggahi Rumah Adat Belitung. Beragam kebudayaan serta adat masyarakat setempat pun bisa ditemukan di sana.
Teks & Foto by Dian Permatasari
Belitung dan pantainya yang indah
sudah menjadi sebuah image yang melekat kuat dalam benak orang-orang. Namun,
rasanya kurang lengkap mengunjungi Belitung tanpa mencoba mengeksplorasi sisi
lain darinya, semisal mengintip keunikan budaya dan mencicipi kuliner yang
disantap masyarakat sehari-hari. Untuk mengenal
Belitung lebih dalam, kali ini saya mencoba “bertingkah” seperti penduduk
lokal.
Tempat pertama yang saya tuju adalah Rumah Adat Belitung di Kota
Tanjungpandan, dekat Kantor Bupati Kabupaten Belitung. Bangunan rumah adat
ini berwana coklat karena didominasi kayu dengan pekarangan hijau yang tampak
asri dari kejauhan. Rumah adat dibuka setiap hari pukul 08.00–12.00 dan 14.00–16.00 WIB. Khusus hari
Minggu dibuka hanya hanya pukul 12.00 WIB.
Diresmikan pada 2009,
rumah adat ini merupakan rekonstruksi rumah panggung tradisional yang dulu
digunakan sebagai tempat bernaung masyarakat. Kini rumah panggung asli sudah
hilang tergeser modernisasi.
Matahari tampaknya
sangat bersemangat pagi itu. Tanpa berlama-lama di luar, saya bergegas menaiki
tangga menuju teras, melepas alas kaki, serta menaruhnya di tempat yang telah
disediakan. Demi menjaga agar bangunan tidak mudah rusak, semua pengunjung
diwajibkan melepas alas kaki. Suasana sejuk mulai
terasa saat memasuki ruang utama yang terbilang luas. Jendela-jendela besar
berdampingan membiarkan sinar matahari dan semilir angin leluasa masuk. Dinding
kayunya masih mengkilap dengan lantai tertutup tikar.
Di sebelah kiri
ruangan terdapat furniture ruang tamu untuk bersantai. Sementara di sisi kanan
terdapat diorama kamar beserta baju adat pengantin yang masih kental gaya
Melayu. Para pengunjung bisa mencobanya sambil berfoto ria.
Dari ruang utama
terdapat loss, ruang terbuka, yang membimbing saya menuju dapur besar di bagian
belakang bangunan. Rupanya tak hanya alat-alat dapur,
berjejer pula perkakas pertanian dan alat-alat musik tradisional. Mata saya
langsung terpaku pada gambus, yaitu alat musik berbentuk seperti ukulele
kayu yang tuning head-nya diukir membentuk kepala rusa, binatang maskot
Kepulauan Bangka Belitung. Petikan senarnya selalu setia mengiringi upacara
serta tarian adat. Overall, berkeliling di rumah adat ini cukup membuka mata
saya untuk mengenal budaya Belitung lebih mendalam.
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Hidangan ala Negeri Timah
Usai berkeliling di
Rumah Adat Belitung, perut pun mulai bernyanyi. Sebelum meninggalkan rumah
adat, saya bertanya kepada salah satu pengurus rumah adat tentang rumah makan
yang enak di Belitung. Ia menyarankan menyambangi Rumah Makan Belitong Timpo
Duluk (baca: tempo dulu) di Jalan Mat Daud, Kampung Parit, Tanjungpandan.
Setibanya di sana,
saya langsung paham tentang nama rumah makan itu. Tak lain, karena suasana
tradisional Belitung-nya kembali menyapa. Lampu kuning temaram yang memenuhi
ruangan. Foto-foto dan perkakas jadul
Belitung yang terpampang di dinding ruangan mengantarkan saya pada masa
lalu Belitung. Saya mengambil tempat
dekat jendela. Terdengar suara gemericik air mengalir dari kendi hiasan. Tikar
anyaman terselip di bawah kaca meja. Pelayan dengan celemek bercorak khas
Belitung datang menghampiri. Saya memesan beberapa makanan yang wajib dicoba.
Beberapa saat
kemudian, hidangan telah siap. Gangan kelapak mude, masakan berkuah kuning pedas
dengan ikan sebagai bahan utamanya. Dari beberapa pilihan yang ditawarkan, ikan
ketarap khas Belitung ini yang terpopuler karena dagingnya lembut. Di rumah makan ini,
gangan disajikan dalam kelapa muda sebagai pengganti mangkuk. Perpaduan bumbu
kunyit dengan rasa asam dari potongan nanas semakin memperkuat cita rasa segar
dari ikannya. Sangat cocok dimakan bersama nasi hangat.
Menu lain ada ikan
bungkus simpor, ikan bakar berbumbu resep tradisional, dibungkus dengan daun
pohon simpor yang merupakan ciri khas daerah ini. Ada pula berego, makanan dari
tepung beras putih disantap bersama siraman kuah santan gurih dan daging ikan
yang dihaluskan. Mirip laksa, tapi bentuknya berupa mi besar pipih yang dililit
bulat. Sebagai penutup, es jeruk kunci dapat menjadi pilihan.
Jika datang bersama
keluarga atau rombongan, menu dulang Set boleh dicoba. Dulang set diadaptasi
dari Makan Bedulang, tradisi makan bersama yang biasanya dilakukan masyarakat
Belitung saat pesta adat. Satu dulang porsinya disesuaikan untuk empat orang.
Beragam menu disajikan dalam satu nampan bulat besar. Jenis makanannya bisa
berbeda-beda, tergantung pilihan yang ditawarkan rumah makan.
Usai memanjakan lidah,
saya memutuskan bersantai di Pantai Tanjung Pendam yang terletak dekat
pusat kota. Pantai yang menghadap barat ini dikenal karena sunset-nya yang
memesona, serta pemandangan Pulau Kalimoa di kejauhan. Turis dan penduduk
lokal semakin ramai berdatangan. Tampaknya semua datang dengan maksud seragam,
yaitu menikmati sunset. Semburat jingga di horison sore itu memang sukses
menutup hari dengan cantik. *
OTHER SIDES OF BELITUNG
Coming to Belitung is not complete without visiting Rumah Adat belitung ( The Traditional House of Belitung). Various local culture and custom can be found there.
Text & Pictures by Dian Permatasari
Belitung and its beautiful beaches have been a strong image in people's mind. Yet, it is not complete visiting Belitung without exploring other sides of Belitung, such as peeking into its unique culture and tasting its distinguishing culinary. To know more about Belitung, I tried to "act" like local people.
The first destination is Rumah Adat Belitung ( The Traditional House of Belitung) that located in Tanjungpandan City, near The Regent Office of Belitung Regency. The building is brown, dominated by woods and surrounded by greenish yard, which makes it look shady from afar. The open hours is from from 08.00-12.00 and 14.00-16.00 o'clock everyday, except for Sunday which is only from 08.00-12.00 o'clock.
Officially opened in 2009, the building is a reconstruction of traditional house which was used to inhabited by locals. Nowadays, there is no real traditional house left, swept by the modernization.
The sun looked so excited that morning. I rushed to the terrace through the stairs, took off my shoes and put it on the available storage. All visitors has to do this due to the maintenance purpose. The chilly atmosphere touched my skin when I entered its wide main room. The big windows were side by side, letting the sun light and the breeze entered freely. The wood wall was still well polished and the floor was covered by straw mats.
There was a living room with its furniture on the left side. Meanwhile, on the right side, there was a replica of Belitung-Malayan style bedroom and traditional bridegroom costume . The visitors are able to wear it and taking pictures there.
From the main room, there was loss, an open room which led me to the big kitchen at the backside. Not only kitchen tools, there were also farming equipments and traditional musical instruments neatly displayed. My eyes was caught by gambus, a wood instrument which shape like ukulele with the tuning head that carved into a deer head. Deer is the mascot of Bangka Belitung province. Its beautiful strum is always heard on the traditional ceremonies and dances. Overall, getting around this traditional house gave me a brief insight to know more about the cultural side of Belitung.
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The Dishes of tin-mining country
After a small tour around the traditional house, my stomach was starting to growl. I asked for an officer recommendation about a local restaurant before leaving. He suggested to go to Belitong Timpo Duluk Restaurant ( Old Belitung Restaurant ) which is located at Mat Daud Street, Kampung Parit, Tanjungpandan.
When I arrived, I directly understood the restaurant name means. Again, the traditional atmosphere welcomed me. A yellow dim light filled the room. The old pictures and various equipments decorated the wall and brought me to Belitong in the past. I sat near the window. The sound of water flowing down from a jug was heard clearly. The straw mat was tucked under the table mirror. A waitress with Belitung-patterned apron came. I ordered some famous local dishes.
After a while, the dishes were ready. The first dish was Gangan Kelapak Mude, a spicy fish soup with tumeric. Among many kind of fishes for Gangan, ketarap fish is the most popular because of its soft texture. At this restaurant, Gangan is served in the coconut shell as the substitute of bowl. The mixture of tumeric ingredients and the sour taste from pineapple slices bring out the freshness of the fish. It is a perfect dish to be eaten with a bowl of warm rice.
The next dish was Ikan Bungkus Simpor, a seasoned-roasted fish wrapped in Simpor leaves, which is the distinguishing plant of Belitung. Menu lain ada ikan bungkus simpor, ikan bakar berbumbu resep tradisional, dibungkus dengan daun pohon simpor yang merupakan ciri khas daerah ini. And the other dish was Berego, a dish made of rice flour which was eaten with coconut milk and minced fish. The shape is like big flat noodle. Lastly, do not miss the freshness of Belitung citrus ice.
If coming in a group, you can try Dulang Set menu. Dulang Set is adapted from Makan Bedulang, an eating-together-tradition of Belitung people in a traditional celebration. A Dulang Set portion is for 4 people. Various dishes is served in a big tray. The menu choices varies according to the restaurant.
After the stomach was full of tasty food, I decided to relax at Tanjung Pendam beach which is located near the city. It is always full of tourists and locals. Seemed like all came to enjoy the lovely sunset there. And yeah, the golden light above that afternoon horizon succeed to end the day beautifully. *
